Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch — White Dial Vs. Black Dial
Welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. It’s time to get that extra-large coffee this morning because we have a special showdown for you! It is the battle of the Moonwatches. If you are a regular Fratello reader, you could have seen this one coming from a mile away. Today, Jorg will defend the recently introduced white-dial version of the Speedmaster Professional. In the other corner, Mike will make his case for the traditional black-dial Moonwatch in today’s battle. In the end, you get to decide the winner, so let’s get going!
Within the world of Fratello, this is probably the most epic battle you will ever see. As the home of Speedy Tuesday, this showdown will divide people deeply. Expect to see a life-or-death battle that will have devastating long-term effects. What does it come down to? A preferred dial color. While that might seem trivial to outsiders, it is a serious matter in the watch universe. The choice is as simple as it is divisive. Will you go for the classic Moonwatch, the modern version of the watch that went to the Moon? Or will you choose the “Daniel Craig” that popped up on the wrist of the former 007 actor?
Last week, on Sunday Morning Showdown…
But before we let both men have their say, let’s recap last week’s battle. In the previous showdown, Jorg’s Omega Seamaster Diver 300M took 44% of the votes. This means that Robert-Jan’s Rolex Submariner Date ref. 126610LN was victorious with 56% of the votes. Although the numbers were relatively close, the Sub was in front the entire time. It was a rather comfortable win for the current Submariner Date versus Omega’s popular diver, even though the latter’s fans put up a fight in the comments. In the end, it seems that the Submariner is still the king of dive watches, claiming the trophy. Time to head over to Jorg and Mike to find out which Moonwatch is the king!
Jorg: The white-dial Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch
A glimpse of Daniel Craig’s wrist at the Planet Omega exhibition in New York last November sent the watch world into a frenzy. What Speedmaster was on the wrist of the former on-screen secret agent? At first, people thought it was the brilliant Speedmaster Professional in Canopus Gold. But the dial was too white, and there was a hint of red on it, steering people in a different direction. As we know now, it was the new white-dial Moonwatch that came out two weeks ago.
Robert-Jan wrote an extensive review of the new Speedmaster, explaining all the details. I suggest you read that story if you want to know the nitty-gritty of the new Moonwatch. And if you are interested in the black-dial version of the current Speedy that came out in 2021, Robert-Jan also has you covered. For this battle, Mike and I don’t want to “bore” you with specs as these two watches are the same. No, we’ll focus on why we’d pick one over the other, trying to win you over based on personal sentiment.
There is something about white-dial Speedmasters…
It seems like all we have to do in this battle is choose our favorite dial color. But doing so is not just a matter of the color itself for me. If you know me, I prefer black dials over white dials 99 out of 100 times. That’s not it. It’s all about context. The truth is that I love the unexpected when it comes to Speedmasters. While I love the story and the current black-dial Moonwatch’s looks, there is nothing visually exciting about its dial’s presence. When Omega introduced the current Moowatch in 2021, we all agreed it was a huge improvement over the previous generation. And I felt the same. I love that watch, and it is still on my want list.
But I’ve always felt that the black-dial Speedmaster Professional is perhaps a bit too predictable, which, visually, makes it a bit boring. Sure, I understand its historical significance and the story it tells. If that is the reason that you want a Speedmaster, by all means, that is the one to go for. I won’t debate that second. But if you want the brilliance of the current-generation Moonwatch with an added visual sparkle, the new white-dial version is the one to go for. It is visually more striking than its black-dial sibling. The new watch proves what I have thought for a long time: white-dial Speedmasters are a lot more exciting to see than the original Moonwatch.
The 2008 Omega Speedmaster Alaska Project LE
White Speedmasters have been the visual highlights over the years
Some of you will know that my favorite Speedmaster in terms of looks is the 2008 limited-edition Speedmaster Alaska Project with its fully white dial. That is an absolute stunner that showed me the tremendous potential of a white-dial Speedmaster. Another favorite is the much-desired Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award from 2015, which I adore. These two watches were not just brilliantly executed limited editions, but they also proved that white-dial Speedies were more visually exciting than any black-dial limited editions that came out before and after them.
The 2105 Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award — Image: The Watch Club
Going even further back, there is also the Speedmaster “Albino” for the Italian market to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the Speedmaster, as RJ explained. It’s more proof that white works well as a dial color for the Speedmaster Professional. Considering that all these models sell at steep premiums on the pre-owned market, it seems that the fans agree with me. So, like so many Speedy lovers, I was excited to see the new white-dial version. Once it was unveiled, I was happy to see how brilliant it turned out to be.
The story of the new white-dial Omega Speedmaster “Daniel Craig”
As the Moonwatch is debatably the greatest storyteller in watch history, Omega had to develop a story for the latest version and, more specifically, the white dial. According to Omega, the dial color is inspired by the white suits of the astronauts that were used during extravehicular activity (EVA), and the red “Speedmaster” printing is supposedly a nod to the protective case of the Alaska Project. While these are nice references to create a cohesive marketing story, they likely won’t win people over on their strength alone. No, more importantly, the execution of this watch is what makes it a stunner that people will favor over its older brother.
The white varnished and lacquered dial looks super crisp, with the step down to the minute track and the circular graining in the sub-dials easily visible. It creates the depth and detail that the white-dial Speedy needs. Additionally, the brand did well in contrasting the dial with diamond-polished black PVD hands and markers treated with white Super-LumiNova. Not only do these elements contrast nicely with the dial, but they also correspond with the black bezel perfectly. Furthermore, the red “Speedmaster” text gives the watch a nice sparkle of color. With these elements, the white-dial Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch has the visual brilliance it needs to be the preferred pick. And it works for me. It is my preference in a world where I still want both. What about you, Mike? Will you buy a white-dial Speedy?
Mike: The black-dial Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch
First of all, a very happy Sunday to all of you. It’s nice to be back in the ring for one of our Sunday Morning Showdowns! When the question went out to the team asking who was interested in taking a side in the black/white Moonwatch contest, I quickly raised my hand. Surprisingly, though, the sole condition for my participation was the ability to support Team Black. Why is that so surprising? Well, if you’ve listened to any Fratello On Air episodes, you’d know that one of my recurring wishes has been for a serial-production white-dial Speedmaster Professional. Well, as they say here in Old Blighty, “bish bash bosh,” or “Bob’s your uncle.” In other words, case closed. Well, not so fast.
The white Speedy is not for me
When it comes to watches, I’ll quote one of my favorite bands, Depeche Mode, by saying, “Everything Counts in Large Amounts.” It’s here that the white Speedy falters for me. The idea of a white Speedmaster Professional is intoxicating, but the fact that Omega is only offering it as a sapphire sandwich falls flat — erm, glossy — with me. It’s too damn luxe, and while I get that a sapphire crystal is the way to go from a marketing perspective, why not also offer Hesalite? But hey, I own a couple of Speedies with sapphire crystals, and to be fair, they’re nice enough.
So, the crystal annoys me, but I can see past that (I’m on a roll today). The dial on the white Speedy pushes me over the edge. I’ve seen more than my share of pictures in different lights and even copped a view here in the local AD. My main issue with the white Moonwatch is its glossy dial. I had my heart set on a matte version with printed black Super-LumiNova (it’s been done on the Dark Side of the Moon ref. 311.92.44.51.01.005). Instead, we have a more luxurious version of the Speedmaster Professional with applied indices and a fancy-pants dial. Oh, and lest I forget, there’s the red “Speedmaster” wording. Again, I understand the desire to zoot up this new Speedy to take on fancier competition, but it’s not my type of Moonwatch. I’m full of adages today, and, folks, when I see the newest Speedy, I’d say that’s not how we play cricket.
Why the black Speedmaster rules them all
We don’t need to argue that 99% of us no longer use our tool watches for anything other than telling the time. Still, there’s something special about a watch that blends a great story with a wonderfully functional design. While now thoroughly modern, the black-dial Speedy Pro is about as analog as it gets today. And frankly, I love it. Its printed matte dial, white detailing, and acrylic crystal combine to form perfection. When I say it like that, perhaps the image of a semi-rough-and-ready Moonwatch is so imprinted on my brain that the white version never had a fighting chance in the battle for Speedmaster supremacy. Plus, let’s address the elephant in the room. This is the Moonwatch.
Making a choice
When my podcast co-host Balazs recently visited the Miami Omega boutique, he asked the sales manager if he thought that the white Moonwatch would serve as a first Speedmaster or a second, and he received an interesting reply. After some thought, the manager felt that it would be more popular as an addition to an existing collection of Speedmasters. I think that’s appropriate, and it’s consistent with my feelings too. The white-dial Speedmaster is a welcome addition to the lineup, and perhaps it will reel in some customers who don’t own an Omega. However, when choosing only one Speedy, there is no competition in my mind. The original black Moonwatch is the answer.
